Michelle

Too tall for petites? Try'em; they just might work

In the never-ending quest to find clothing that fits and flatters, average and tall women are going to have to explore new territory: the petite department.

No matter what a person's height, we all come in an unpredictable configuration of shapes and proportions. So, what flatters you may not be most obvious. Lesson No. 1 is be flexible, says Seattle-based stylist Ellen York who wrote "Dressing the Petite Woman." At 5 feet 2 inches tall, York is an expert in the petite department and coordinating outfits to make petites look taller.

When we asked her how taller women could accentuate their figure positives in the petite department, she was intrigued.

Dressing the nonpetite woman in petite clothes is "not common, but it's not uncommon either," York said. "Sometimes, a petite skirt or top is perfect for a taller woman."

A recent client who stands just an inch over the petite cutoff of 5 feet 4 inches was the perfect candidate for a few petite items. The woman has a long torso and short legs. So York found a petite blouse that landed above her natural waist and a pair of petite pants with a higher rise to elongate her legs. She said the wardrobe tricks visually reapportioned her body.

The woman in this instance was 5-feet-5 but, depending on body shape, the same could be done for a woman standing 5 feet 7 inches or taller, York said. At that height, the woman would wear a petite blouse, but the pants would have to come from the misses or juniors department.

Many women of average height feel short and dumpy, but it has nothing to do with their stature, York said. It's the fit of their clothes.

"Often, if they will shorten their skirt or jacket, they wouldn't look so frumpy and dumpy," York said.

Petite clothing doesn't always solve the problem, but it doesn't hurt to test out the lengths if you haven't drifted into that department before.

"No matter how tall or how small the woman, there is something that will look good on them," and it might be labeled misses or women's or petite or tall or a combination of those, York said.

Katy Maak, co-owner of Paperdolls on Washington Avenue, said she often stocks her shop with European sizes that typically equate to American petite sizes. Most of her customers don't notice the difference; they just notice the fit.

Maak, a size 6, is about 5 feet 8 inches tall and loves the way petite skirts curve in and conform to her shape. She said the skirts feel better around her hips as well.

And plus sizes can find options in the petite department, too. Most major department stores carry petite-plus items.

By the way: Try everything on.

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How to wear petite

Long torso

A petite top will stop higher, so it may help visually shorten the torso. Add regular pants with a higher waist to lengthen legs and a thick belt to define the midsection. Be cautious if you carry more weight around the middle. You don't want to accentuate your least-flattering feature with a shirt hem that circles the widest region of your body, so a petite top would not be a good option.

Short torso

Petite blouses and vests can be great options: They stop around the natural waist. A regular top stops around the hips. The petite top will define a smaller torso and accentuate leg length.

Broad shoulders

Petite tops and jackets are not the best option, regardless of one's height. Vests might work if the armholes are cut generously, but be wary of contoured side seams that can make the garments very binding across the shoulder blades. If you really prefer the length and your shoulders won't cooperate, look for a style that falls straight down from the armpits on the sides, with no contouring. The jacket has to fit the shoulders.

Long legs

Depending on where you carry the weight in your bottom half, petite skirts and capris may be great options. Some regular skirts land at an awkward place on the calf, which can accent a thicker portion of the leg. In such a case, a petite skirt landing just below the knee may be an attractive alternative. Same goes for capris.
If a regular skirt lands a few inches from the floor and you plan to wear it with boots, the petite version may give just enough leg room to flaunt those shoes. The rule: Avoid any garment that stops at the widest part of your leg.

Long arms

If you're looking for three-quarter and short-sleeve tops and jackets, consider the torso rule. Otherwise, the only caveat involves testing the garments for elbow-bending, bicep-flexing room. Petite sleeves no matter how short are generally cut for slimmer arms and may cut off the circulation of thicker limbs. But for long, slim limbs that get lost in regular-size sleeves, petite tops could be perfect.