Michelle

Stores learn that when petite women sound off, it's not just small talk

Still, Saks' high-profile turnaround is an encouraging indication that retailers do listen to what customers want. At least occasionally. And the press this story has received finally drew attention to the diminishing options for petites (with the closing of the Petite Sophisticate chain and department stores including Bloomingdale's and Neiman Marcus backing off from petite sizing). Since my last column on the topic, I've been receiving e-mails like this one, from a short shopper and her equally petite twin sister in Osceola, Wis.: "It was affirming to read that my sister and I are not the only ones experiencing this sadness and loss. It does affect a woman when appropriate and appealing apparel cannot be found."

You don't have to tell that to FM 107 radio host Cathie Hartnett, whose opinions seem much larger than her 4-11 ("and three-fourths!") frame. Hartnett also hovers at a weight well north of 120. "When you're short and fat, nothing fits." She needs a 24 bottom through the waist and hip, but manufacturers seem to assume anyone with a tummy is 10 feet tall, so the legs are always a mile too long. Adequately shortening them requires loping off the taper or flare that gives slacks their style. "I don't want to wear elephant pants," Hartnett says.

She called me last week after a maddening evening at Marshall Field's in which she tried on 17 pairs of pants and 10 tops and left empty-handed. The petite department gets one or two items in her size — if she's lucky. Plus sizes are designed for tall women with broad shoulders who can wear a gigantic floral pattern without appearing overwhelmed. One size doesn't fit all, and neither does one set of proportions.

That's why Hartnett is now buying almost all of her clothes at a custom shop in St. Paul called C'est Fou (1128 Grand Ave.; 651-602-9133). Designer Susan Metzger's average customer is a size 14, and at least a quarter of the women she works with are under 5-foot-4. She helps a lot of tall women as well — really, anyone who isn't a perfect size 6. When Hartnett walked in for the first time, Metzger didn't ask her size. She simply pulled some styles she thought would work and altered what didn't — at no additional charge. People assume custom clothing is only for the wealthy, but a shirt and coordinating pants at C'est Fou runs around $150.

Metzger got Hartnett out of oversized tops with extra fabric under the arms and into styles that flattered her curves. She replaced the capris Hartnett had been wearing as full-length pants with trousers proportioned appropriately for her size.

"I can't tell you how much better she made me feel," Hartnett says.

I share this story as a reminder that national retailers and clothing manufacturers are dumb. Outside the mall, it is possible to find fashions that fit, no matter what your body type.

"Most designs cut for overweight petite customers are really ugly," Metzger says. "The designers feel this woman just wants clothes, not fashion."

We know that's not true. So keep making noise, ladies. The stores finally seem to be listening.